You can just barely make out in this photograph how I installed the Column Stalk switch. I used
one of the Over Drive Escutcheons instead of the normal escutcheon and mounted the Stalk in that hole.
You can just barely make out in this photograph how I installed the Column Stalk switch. I used
one of the Over Drive Escutcheons instead of the normal escutcheon and mounted the Stalk in that hole.
I'm real pleased with how well the Stalk arrangement came out. It almost looks like it was designed
to be in that location.
The only mistake I made was not thinking far enough ahead while installing the Stalk. I ended up
putting an D-type overdrive in the car and while I had the steering column assembly
apart I should have installed the escutcheon on the right side of the column for the OD switch and
install the OD switch. As it turned out I had to take things apart again for the OD switch.
As you can see I utilized the open space next to the clutch master cylinder for the Cruise Control
Servo module. This one module is pretty much all there is to the entire installation.
The carburettor bracketry might have been the trickiest part of the whole installation. Mainly
because there is so little room to work with. I utilized one of the arms that was installed on
the throttle shaft between the carbs. That became the control arm for the servo control cable.
In order to hold the control cable securely in place I fabricated a bracket that utilized the top
mounting stud on each carburettor and also ran a brace to one of the inlet manifold top mounting
bolts. I initially left this brace off but I noticed that when I revved the engine up the bracket
spanning the carburettors would vibrate badly. This brace seems to have stopped that.
Here is a better view of the bracket that mounts between the two carburettors.
Other than a switch that needs to be installed on the clutch pedal these pictures show the
pretty much all that needs to be installed for the cruise control. Under the dash you have to run
one wire to the fuse block, one to the voltage stabilizer and two wires to the brake and clutch pedals.
Pretty simple and straight forward actually. The only other connection under the dash is from the
Stalk cable to a connector on the cruise control harness. I eventually plan on coming up with drawings
for the brackets that I made in the event that someone else might wish to install a cruise control
system in their spitfire.
As a side note, I am also installing one of these in my TR4. I've already got some of the bracketry made
for that car but I'm quite a ways from being able to test it!
Servo kit - part # SCS 4342 ($180.00) with coil & on-board signal sensing electronics.
Above items were purchased from Progressive Automotive in Lincoln Nebraska.
Their phone number is (402)466-4505
Servo module mounting bracket (custom made)
Clutch pedal switch mounting bracket (custom made)
2 - clutch pedal switch connector (??)
1 - voltage regulator connector (1/4" female spade)
1 - coil connector - (1/4" female spade)
1 - connector adapter for brake pedal switch (Pico Part # 1595D)
1 - rubber padding for under servo mount
6" - green/purple wire (salvaged from old Triumph harness)
One section of the CC harness passes through the firewall where the Spitfires main
wiring harness comes through under the master cylinder. This harness is made up of
3 wires. Red, green and red/green. The red wire connects to one of the open
connectors on the fuse block. The green wire goes to the voltage regulator on the
same connector that has two green wires attached to it. This is the input side of
the voltage stabilizer. You will need to make a jumper wire using 6" of green/purple
wire that will go from one of the connectors on the clutch pedal switch to the lamp
side or green/purple wire of the brake pedal switch. That completes the under dash
wiring with the exception of the CC Stalk connections.
In the engine compartment the CC harness has a black ground wire that I grounded in
the same place as the engine ground cable, which should be on the right hand
side of the ignition coil mount. The only other electrical connection to be made is
to run the blue wire of the CC harness to the negative side of the ignition coil.
This would be the same wire that goes to the distributor.
NOTE: The car MUST be a negative ground system for the cruise control to work properly.
The servo module mounting bracket was made from a piece of 1/4" x 4" x 8" metal plate.
I will have a sketch of it posted sometime in the near future.
The carburettor mounting bracket was probaby the most difficult to make. I utilized the
top mounting stud for each carburettor along with one of the intake manifold upper
mounting bolts for a cross brace attachment. Again I will have a sketch of this bracket
posted sometime in the near future.
The clutch pedal switch bracket was made from 1/8" x 1 " ?? flat metal stock. I simply
bent it into something resembling a Z shape. Again I will have a sketch of this bracket
posted sometime in the near future.
I'm still looking for a better clutch pedal switch and when I do so I'll post the details
here. I intially bought a Radio Shack switch but I'm not happy with the amount of adjustment
that it offers.
NOTE: One of these days I'll actually update this page with the sketches! I just never seem
to get the time to remove them to actually take measurements. So check back periodically, I will
get them on here eventually.